8 Manufacturers Making Their Debut, or Go back, At Watches and Wonders 2024

From ace pilots and the “maestro” of watchmaking to the usefulness of unconventional fabrics and a mountain climbing crooked, those 8 distant manufacturers are including their voices to the combo on the 2024 version of Watches and Wonders.

H. Moser & Cie

With irreverent creations lined in residing crops or mimicking the glance of a smartphone rebooting, 196-year-old watchmaker H. Moser & Cie slightly wishes an advent because it returns to Watches and Wonders next skipping the 2023 version.

It brings a grasp of fresh designs, foundation with the 40-mm Streamliner Tourbillon Skeleton impressive for its symmetry, and a couple of Pioneer Centre Seconds unveiled latter month. There’s the Idea Citrus Inexperienced, a bracing hue that epitomizes the “life’s too short for meh watches” commentary that accompanied its creation, and a fairly extra demure Cosmic Inexperienced 40-mm.

The label based in 1828 by way of Heinrich Moser and relaunched in 2005 isn’t afraid to push limitations. Deny indices, incorrect brand and every so often even incorrect dial — the only on its 2022 “Blacker Than Black” used to be covered in Vantablack so looked as if it would vanish into slim wind — are all truthful sport.

Congruent with its motto of “Very Rare,” round 3,000 watches pop out of its ateliers in Neuhausen-am-Rheinfall, which manufactures the 18 in-house calibers in its catalogue. Since 2012, the corporate has been beneath the umbrella of MELB Protecting, shaped by way of business veteran and previous Audemars Piguet leading govt officer Georges-Henri Meylan.

Regardless that the logo is adamant to let its watches do the speaking (which were given some other comedic twist in a video that includes CEO Edouard Meylan and a timepiece making an attempt to withstand The Advert Guy), it has lately signed directly to be the primary world spouse of Formulation One racing crew Alpine Motorsports and inked some other follow-up trade in with French motive force Pierre Gasly, the primary ambassador within the logo’s historical past.

H. Moser & Cie has lately introduced its personal qualified pre-owned deal, which incorporates watches from earlier collections. Timepieces offered thru this channel are absolutely serviced and include a two-year promise.

Bremont

Even if established in 2002, the tale of British watchmaker Bremont began within the past due ’90s someplace above France when brothers Nick and Giles English bumped into foul climate of their Nineteen Thirties biplane, forcing them into an catastrophe touchdown.

They have been taken in by way of the kindly proprietor of the grassland that they had landed in, a talented engineer who’d flown aircrafts right through International Struggle II named Antoine Bremont.

In his residence have been dozens of half-restored wall clocks and much more engine portions, which echoed their formative years making and restoring on the knee in their past due father, an ex-Royal Wind Power pilot who held a PhD in aeronautical engineering and who used to be keen about mechanical timepieces.

Based totally in Henley-on-Thames, the logo constructed its popularity on rugged timepieces with an avionic inspiration, attracting military-minded consumers to its designs themed across the sea, land and wind. Costs of its timepieces get started beneath 3,000 euros and keep throughout the four-figure bracket.

It turned into the one watchmaker to be “Made in England” on an business scale with the 2021 founding of “The Wing,” its production and generation heart.

The 22-year-old logo took a fresh step in 2023, first with a $59 million funding from hedge investmrent supervisor Invoice Ackman, who’s a consumer and old his personal budget, and current investor Hellcat Acquisitions. Next got here the July nomination of business veteran Davide Cerrato as CEO. The strikes are anticipated to look the logo considerably scale up manufacturing, put at round 10,000 gadgets a 12 months.

Bremont is the unique keep tabs on supplier for the British Ministry of Protection and its timepieces have even long gone thru a reside ejection trying out program. It has additionally created customized fashions for some 400 navy gadgets around the globe, in line with current designs.

The logo were given its flip as a silver-screen motion hero, developing 3 customized designs for the British brokers of “Kingsman: The Secret Service” film. Now not simplest did cofounder Nick English detail within the flick, however 1,100 editions have been to be had on the market to the crowd right through the 2014 loose.

Raymond Weil

For Raymond Weil, being available in value and availability isn’t a wicked factor. Nor does it cruel skimping on technical expertise.

An illustration: the logo’s Millesime 2930 computerized tiny seconds keep tabs on received the Problem prize at latter 12 months’s Magnificent Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève, a prize that admires timepieces priced beneath 3,500 Swiss francs.

That is the crowning success for a logo constructed on the concept one may just deal a Swiss-made keep tabs on with a top quality motion and good-looking options at entry-level costs.  

Weil, who gave up the ghost elderly 87 in 2014, introduced the logo in 1976 on the halfway level of the quartz catastrophe, when the Swiss business used to be floundering within the face of robust festival from Asia that introduced affordable digital keep tabs on actions.

In step with a 2011 interview, Weil offered his first designs — quartz and mechanical watches — off a foldout bridge desk in a slip of a sales space at Baselworld, playing that his concept would resonate that the “union of design and technicality makes a product incredibly captivating and interesting.”

The founder’s hobby for tune noticed timepieces named Amadeus, Saxo and Maestro and that connection continues to this generation with collaborations with The Beatles, the David Bowie Property, Bob Marley’s Space of Marley and British producer Marshall Amplification.

By way of the past due Nineteen Eighties, the logo had carved a field for itself as an everyman keep tabs on week too much distant and family-owned, with Weil’s son-in-law Olivier Bernheim helming its world building.

Elie Bernheim, now the CEO and 3rd past on the helm of the family members logo, joined in 2005 and has since been steerage it in a extra refined course, with keep tabs on lovers as a goal.

For its Watches and Wonders debut, Raymond Weil shall be bringing out 11 fresh references of the Millesime series, priced between 1,575 Swiss francs and three,500 Swiss francs, starting from its GPHG winner and 35-mm case with a extra female slant to a Tri-Compax panda-style chronograph and an elegant moonphase with central seconds.

Nomos Glashütte

When Roland Schwertner based Nomos in 1990, town of Glashütte, thought to be the birthplace of German watchmaking, had simplest lately turn out to be available once more to the Western global because of the autumn of the Berlin Wall 8 weeks previous.

However this IT specialist and photographer based totally within the German town of Düsseldorf already had the ambition of constructing top quality but available timepieces rooted in his hometown’s ancient watchmaking epicenter. The speculation paid off: the corporate he based is now the most important manufacturer of German watches.

The primary 4 fashions got here out in 1992 and incorporated the Tangente, which has since turn out to be a logo vintage. The watches made an have an effect on with their blank, unfussy strains and Bauhaus-inspired typography, an indication of the fledgling logo’s adherence to the function-first ideas of the Deutscher Werkbund affiliation.

The primary in-house motion got here out in 2005 however the main milestone for the logo used to be the 2014 divulge of its in-house escapement. Now not simplest did this put Nomos a few of the handful of manufacturers that may assemble their very own however it additionally unpriviledged the corporate’s reliance on Swiss-made actions. This present day, the vertical integration of the German watchmaker is round 95 % throughout its 15 strains.

On a wall at its headquarters, the collection of prizes Nomos has received is tallied in chalk. They now quantity greater than 160 and space from just about 40 wins of the Goldene Unruh award passed out by way of important German magazines and 11 Reddot Design Awards to the Problem Prize received on the 2018 Magnificent Prix de l’Horlogerie de Genève for its Tangente Replace fashion.

Regardless of the advent of gold watches in 2013, the logo continues to keep on with its available ethos. Costs get started round 1,200 euros for a two-hand 33-mm Ludwig with a manual-wind Alpha.2 caliber to over 15,000 euros for the 18-karat white gold tonneau-shaped Lux embarking the in-house DUW 2002 caliber.

For this 12 months’s truthful, the logo shall be freeing at least 31 colorways of the Tangente 38 era – 175 Years Watchmaking Glashütte. With names like “Super Sardine,” “Lemonbiscuit” and “Pompadour,” this limited-edition run embarking the DUW 4101 caliber is priced less than the usual fashion. “The joy of mechanical watches should be accessible to as many people as possible,” said the logo.

Gerald Charles

Ask someone within the watchmaking business and maximum will agree there’s no dressmaker extra prolific or influential than Gérald Charles Genta.

The watches he designed, starting together with his first on the date of 23 with the Polerouter he created for Common Génève, are icons for manufacturers and at the holy grail want lists of lovers.

With Gerald Charles, it’s Genta’s ultimate function that involves the truthful for the primary month.

In 2000 and elderly 69, Genta based the fresh label to specific himself independently yet again, next his eponymous Gérald Genta logo — in this day and age an unrelated label incubated beneath Los angeles Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton — modified fingers two times.

Traders, together with the Ziviani family members, got here on board in 2003 and Genta stayed on as dressmaker in leading till his loss of life in 2011.

A few of the designs that got here out is the “Maestro,” with an octagonal case with a rounded “smile” at the decrease edge that nods to the Baroque buildings of Swiss-born Italian architect Francesco Borromini.

In 2018, Gerald Charles used to be reinvigorated with the arriving of Federico Zivani as basic supervisor, with the Maestro as its flagship fashion. It discharged a 252-piece run of the Maestro Annualannually in 2020, to mark the collection of months since its forming, and named dressmaker Octavio Garcia, an Audemars Piguet veteran of 12 years, as inventive director a 12 months then.

The logo, which is stocked in some 50 issues of sale globally together with Mr. Porter, Arije and London Jewelers, produces round 2,000 watches a 12 months. Costs space between 16,000 euros for a metal three-hand computerized fashion and journey as much as 160,000 euros for the limited-edition skeleton model all set with emeralds designed by way of Garcia.

All visuals shall be on Masterlink, the fresh evolution of the Maestro case that used to be 4 years within the making. Garcia, who labored along Genta, created an built-in bracelet that seamlessly follows the state of the case.

ArtyA

Yvan Arpa isn’t the familiar keep tabs on business variety, however extra an art-and-life fanatic with a prior profession as a mathematician who alongside the way in which present in watchmaking his medium of selection. 

There’s negligible conventionalism to be anticipated from his creations for the ArtyA logo, which he based in 2009, mixing his identify with the time period artwork, next having consulted for a space of Swiss luxurious watchmakers together with Baume & Mercier and Hublot.

Within the 12 months marking the corporate’s fifteenth yearly, ArtyA is attending Watches and Wonders for the primary month with a design that the corporate expenses as a “return to essentials.”

The logo, based totally in central Geneva, can have accumulated reputation for its “Son of” collections — which incorporated watches with dials produced from unconventional fabrics comparable to actual bullets, stones, actual shredded euros, metal sopping wet in Arpa’s blood or in motor oil, in addition to butterfly wings (in compliance with native government’ lets in) — however it reached fresh production heights with its Purity lineup unveiled in 2021 as a part of its Headaches assortment, which already counts 3 tourbillons.

Hinged on spotlighting the distinction of aesthetic simplicity and technical complexity, by the use of transparency, ArtyA’s “Purity Stairway to Heaven” design is a 40-mm stainless steel or ceramic double-barrel mechanical keep tabs on that includes a minimalist, skeletonized dial and an alluring juxtaposition of shiny and matte finishes at the case. It retails at 25,900 euros for the metal model and 31,000 euros for the ceramic design.

The corporate mentioned it plans to roll out Unique 10 items for each and every configuration at get started and nearest form a restricted run of 99 items according to configuration.

Providing most commonly numbered and distinctive designs, ArtyA’s creations are disbursed in 30 nations at about 60 high-end keep tabs on shops.

Eberhard & Co.

Eberhard & Co.’s 137-year historical past is synced up with the beginning and evolution of the Swiss watchmaking business.

Its founder, Georges Eberhard, established the corporate, nearest a unmarried manufacturing facility, in 1887, hastily changing into a important industrialist based totally out of Los angeles Chaux-de-Fonds. Town is the epicenter of the so-called Keep an eye on Valley and is surrounded by way of the Jura mountains. By way of 1910 Eberhard & Co. used to be the most important Swiss keep tabs on producer.

In its early days, the corporate presented a number of patents and inventions, from the time-setting and hours- and minutes-reading mechanisms for its area watches to the primary wrist chronograph in 1919.

The utmost would quickly turn out to be Eberhard & Co.’s hero design, continuously modernized, particularly for the reason that past due Nineteen Nineties and early 2000s, when the corporate made a high-end push with its providing and furthered its center of attention on sportier designs. Its collections retail between 800 euros and eight,000 euros.

In 2001 it debuted the off-kilter Chrono 4 fashion, which options 4 chronographs organized in a row at the dial, surroundings it except for alternative chronograph designs. A 2nd iteration, named Chrono 4 Temerario with an oblong dial and the 4 chronographs in a vertical row, used to be presented in 2005.

A couple of years previous, in 1992, the corporate trustworthy a whole assortment to the past due motor racing champion Tazio Nuvolari, debuting a chronograph in his identify to mark the centennial since his beginning.

Hitting Watches and Wonders’ 2024 version, Eberhard & Co. is taking some other icon up a notch, issuing a fresh iteration of its Residue-fort mechanical design, first presented in 1940 with a sliding push button.

The fresh Residue-fort Vitré includes a 39-mm metal case, Dauphine-type fingers and a dial decorated with concentric patterns juxtaposing a vertical series motif and the azurée end of the year band. It’s to be had in several sun shades, from the silver with silver chronographs and the silver with dull chronographs variations to a fashion-forward iteration with a bright blue dial with silver chronographs.

Norqain

Norqain’s brand, a illustration of a mountain top shaped by way of two reflected “n” letters, speaks volumes concerning the corporate’s performance-driven ethos.

The family-owned, distant Swiss watchmaker established in 2018 by way of CEO Ben Küffer and headquartered in Nidau, Switzerland, is perfect identified for its luxurious game watches designed for the stunning open air.

Küffer amassed a bunch of keep tabs on business execs and lovers to turn out to be concerned about his fresh industry, together with Ted Schneider, a member of the family members as soon as proudly owning the Breitling label, and Swiss ice hockey champion Mark Streit and his father Marc Küffer, a former board member of the Swiss Keep an eye on Business Affiliation for 25 years.

Jean-Claude Biver, a former Tag Heuer CEO, head of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton’s keep tabs on section and Hublot investor, used to be named helper to the Norqain board, serving to state the corporate’s undertaking to praise and develop momentum round mechanical watches for the more youthful generations.

“There are few truly independent watch brands that exist today — Norqain is rare in this sense. Without the pressure of shareholders, Norqain has freedom to create its own long-term vision and the path it takes to get there. This opens the door to innovation,” Biver mentioned concerning the logo at the corporate’s web site.

In 2022 the logo presented The Wild One selection of watches that includes the proprietary Norteq subject matter, six occasions lighter than metal and three.5 occasions lighter than titanium. Conscious of these days’s consumers’ quest for personalisation, each and every Norqain keep tabs on comes with a customizable plate at the case’s left facet that may be engraved with a commitment of selection.

Designed in-house by way of a devoted crew and manufactured at its Tavannes, Switzerland, manufacturing website, Norqain’s watches boast an open-back case that permit a viewer to respect its calibers and actions. In efforts to additional cement its popularity within the elevated watchmaking business, in 2020 the corporate entered right into a partnership with motion producer Kenissi, thus introducing two fresh calibers completely manufactured for Norqain, the three-hand NN20/1 and the GMT NN20/2.

The logo’s providing is focused on 3 collections, each and every with a particular aptitude. Liberty gathers essentially the most cutting edge fashions, together with the 42-mm skeleton design and the Wild One Skeleton genre, week Journey and Self-rule have a extra city and antique crooked, respectively.

With costs starting from 800 euros to 4,000 euros, the logo is to be had at make a selection shops globally, together with Bucherer, Wempe, Ben Bridge, Watches of Switzerland, and Wing, amongst others.