Expressive Minimalism Grounds Modern Workwear

Against the architectural backdrop of Amaliehaven, a garden carved from clean and sharp shapes, stonework, sculptural greenery, and fountains, Lovechild 1979 presented its Spring/Summer 2025 show on day two of Copenhagen Fashion Week. As the locale’s everyday visitors swarmed to see what the hubbub was about, the Scandi fashion crowd—roasting in the afternoon sun—eagerly awaited the latest reveal from founder Anne-Dorthe Larsen.

Drawing inspiration from the works of famed sculptor Eva Hesse, this collection was a steadfast continuation of the brand’s DNA. Renowned for its industrial minimalism, Lovechild 1979 appreciates the importance of tactility. And in reexamining contemporary workwear—what Larsen notes she set out to do with this collection—her instinct for fabrication proved as sound as ever.

Diverging slightly from previous seasons, the runway notably skewed to the boxy silhouettes and minimalist organic tones of the 1960s and 1970s, infusing a more expressive tone in everyday statement pieces that could still easily complement the rest of your wardrobe.

Regarded as a pioneer of the postminimal art movement in the 1960s, Hesse’s work is characterised by an abstract use of material, often utilising unexpected mediums, which set the tone for Spring/Summer 2025. From light blue cotton poplin and linen blend to sheer tencel and soft lamb leather, Larsen focused on raw fabrics that could offer a seamless transition from work to evening attire. This interplay of textures, featuring tonal layering, knots and ropes, establishes an organic feel to clothes, where even tailoring and head-to-toe leather are anchored by an earthy simplicity. Here, intentional imperfection becomes an emphatic statement, effortlessly realised in the details—the slight crinkle of a coat, curved seams, ripped textures, etc.

For a sense of lightness—of which Hesse’s work always evoked—key fabrics such as compact viscose and cotton silk evoke the transparency and fluidity of watercolours, while the use of innovative textile such as Naia acetate, produced from pine and eucalyptus wood underscores the brand’s commitment to further sustainable practices.