Julien Dossena Will Be Jean Paul Gaultier’s Upcoming Visitor Couturier
Jean Paul Gaultier has discovered the later clothier for its much-watched visitor couturier program: Paco Rabanne creative director Julien Dossena.
In a short lived let fall, the home known as the coming near near assortment “a merging of Paco Rabanne and Jean Paul Gaultier’s creative DNA,” which Dossena will unveil throughout the Fall 2023 couture season, in July 2023. Upcoming I realized Gaultier perched within the entrance row of Dossena’s great surrealist Fall 2023 ready-to-wear display in Paris previous this presen, I and far of the trend press speculated the function, which has turn into one of the crucial expected happenings of the couture season, may fall later to the French-born futuristic clothier.
“Welcome to the Family Julien Dossena!” the let fall added.
Dossena will practice the rhapsodically-received show by Haider Ackermann, which drew at the hastily minimalist, technique-obsessive aspect of Gaultier’s oeuvre. Simply what each and every visitor clothier will plunder amid the part a century of Gaultier creations has turn into slightly of a parlor sport for model fanatics on Instagram and Twitter, regardless that each and every of Gaultier’s selected creatives has at all times created a heady sense of awe. Gaultier introduced this system upcoming he retired in January 2020; his ready-to-wear is spurred ahead via collaborators like Lotta Volkova and Palomo Spain, era his legacy as an “enfant terrible” of favor is carried ahead seasonally via visitor designers who’ve incorporated Sacia’s Chitose Abe, Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing, Y/Challenge and Diesel’s Glenn Martens, and Ackermann.
In WWD, Dossena not hidden that he’s already spent a hefty quantity of era trawling throughout the Gaultier archives. “When you are touching all those pieces, you can try to understand the thinking that allowed him to arrive at that exact reference, mixed with another reference that makes it unique and at the same time super French, mixed with that cool, 1990s grunge feeling—yet realized with the most exquisite techniques and embroideries,” the clothier informed the opening.
Dossena has led Paco Rabanne since 2013, and his taste of sun-baked elegant, construction on Rabanne’s legacy of crafting plastic, chainmail, and steel into minidresses and robes, has gained a cult following. Over the day few years, his megastar turns out to have begun burning ever brighter, and his Fall 2023 assortment was once one of the crucial mentioned at Paris this day season. He’s additionally now not somewhat a stranger to couture; as he told me in an interview earlier this month, he and his team assemble many of their pieces by hand, operating in a realm of demi-couture. “There is a sewing machine for sure, because there are some pieces in fabric too. But a lot of it is like, basically there is no machine. It’s really by hand most of the time. It’s really a craftsmanship that is, let’s say, inherent to the house. There are a lot of people here opening the rings and putting the elements together and engineering.”
Rachel Tashjian is the Type Information Director at Harper’s Bazaar, operating throughout print and virtual platforms. In the past, she was once GQ’s first model critic, and labored as deputy essayist of GARAGE and as a scribbler at Vainness Honest. She has written for publications together with Bookforum and Artforum, and is the writer of the invitation-only publication Opulent Guidelines.