Louis Shengtao Chen Shanghai Fall 2024 Assortment

Louis Shengtao Chen has many, many emotions. “This season the woman is getting mad,” the dressmaker mentioned behind the curtain later his fall 2024 display in Shanghai. “She’s a little bit crazy, she’s angry!” Like each season, Chen defined, the lady in query is the feminine model of himself. So what’s he furious about?

A looming feeling of instability, the long-term results of the pandemic—which we’re experiencing in actual presen now—an business strained via financial unsureness, your on a regular basis nervousness. TL; DR, simply pick out your poison. 

All that mentioned, Chen additionally has many, many concepts. Age he was once fast to claim that this isn’t a thematic assortment, one may just to find a couple of habitual yarns: There have been some natural world within the circumstance of rosettes and butterfly and deer prints (the ultimate of which graced the cover of Trend China’s Shanghai Style Moment version on a coat); there have been gloriously bouncy, ballooning bustles and panniers and crinolines formed with Chen’s signature irreverence and exacting technical finesse; and there have been riffs on what the dressmaker christened as “streetwear glamour.” 

Those consisted of demi-couture-ish cropped zip hoodies lined in rose appliques, slouchy adapted trousers, ultra-suede shearling vests, mohair maxi attire with sweeping tentacular hems, and sequin “puffies” old as gloves or leg heaters, which delivered a soothing ASMR impact at the runway. Balancing those extra blind choices was once a run of deliciously adapted coats, roomy louche slips, and deftly formed corsets—if you want evidence of the way neatly Chen is aware of his manner round a girdle, simply check out how he snatched a shearling coat with some satin and a couple of items of boning.  

Chen known night fabrications as his relief zone, “what people identify as Louis Shengtao Chen,” he mentioned, and defined that the problem right here was once to stretch his perspective to the boulevard. “We are very comfortable with doing stuff that is very romantic, softer, and beautiful,” he mentioned. “This was the first time we did something in this real juxtaposition with streetwear.” He did to be able to superb impact. At simply 27 Chen is remarkably self-aware however nonetheless preserves the naiveté that makes his paintings thrilling. 

However what’s it that drives Chen insane? “I’m always crazy about romance!” he exclaimed, to which his publicist quipped in answer: “such a Pisces.” Emotional, delicate, and imaginative but introspective and highbrow. A duality between myth and truth. Sounds identical to a LouisShengtao Chen assortment.