PH5 Pre-Fall 2025 Collection | Vogue

Cherries decorate tops, dresses, and other upbeat wardrobe pieces in PH5’s pre-fall collection. These can be savored as is, but there is, of course, a backstory. Addressing climate change is one of designer Zoe Champion’s passions, and this collection grew out of her discovery of low-chill cherries, which have been selectively bred—though not genetically modified, the designer stressed—to need less time in the cold to grow. “As people and as a brand, I think we’re not low chill,” Champion said. “[Founder] Wei [Lin] is running a fashion brand and also running triathlons.”

The athletic Lin was tasked with wear testing PH5’s new and ingenious line of bathing suits. Developed in tandem with two factories—one that specializes in knitwear, the other in swimwear—all the pieces are reversible, which means a single bikini can be styled four ways—or more if you add or subtract the straps. The application of the brand’s signature trompe l’oeil hourglass to maillots is especially flattering and fun. It’s also used on dresses that are UV reactive. The new technology, which allows fabric that looks black on the rack to turn reflective white, complements pieces from previous seasons that change color when exposed to light.

Sometimes analyzing a PH5 collection is a bit like eating a cherry with a pit; the messaging complicates the process. Pre-fall, in contrast, went down nice and smooth. The fool-the-eye denims continue to be developed in interesting ways, and there’s lots more that Champion can do with the polos. The application of PH5’s knitting technique to wardrobe staples is especially effective. What you can’t see here is that the weight of the knits has been greatly reduced for pre-fall. The mixed-media pieces (in which the brand’s knits are mixed with wovens) are successful as well.