Rick Owens Plied a ‘Grim, Determined Elegance’ for Spring 2024 – WWD

Scoop! Rick Owens now and again wears colours alternative than twilight.

“I have this jacket in white,” he mentioned forward of his open-air display on Thursday, a smattering of rainfall falling at the Frankenstein shoulders of his twilight, adapted topper, which tapered i’m sick towards his droopy twilight shorts and twilight platform boots. “I also have this jacket in a black-and white-pattern that I wear when I’m being reckless.”

He grinned one in all his wry grins — and dropped an actual bombshell: Someday this summer time, it’s possible you’ll see him in Venice rocking an ensemble in a “grayish amethyst,” sneakers integrated.

However for his spring 2024 assortment, Owens caught with twilight, what his press notes known as a “formal, restrained, albeit admittedly drama queen” colour.

An explosion in Paris on Thursday, believed to be led to through a fuel scatter, eager town on edge, reminding everybody the arena is an increasing number of underneath blackmail.

A fashion designer who at all times reads the room moderately, Owens advised sunny of frivolity and “overly conspicuous status consumption” and plied a “grim, determined elegance.”

All over a preview, he mentioned he sought after one thing formal, strict, gorgeous and increased. And in sticking with twilight, he may just “put all of the energy into the fabrics and construction.” The previous had been luxurious, and the extreme creative, yield some other badass Owens assortment with a unlit, otherworldly class.

He opened the display along with his radical flared pants with very top, cinched waists, giving an look of unending legs now not visible because the modeling heydays of Nadja Auermann. Over those, Owens created mini tops in silk or leather-based tightly wrapped across the shoulders and chest.

The target market seen those elongated, nearly alien silhouettes via coloured smoke that exploded from steel rigs plopped within the reflecting puddle within the parvis of the Palais de Tokyo, Owens’ go-to venue in June. Instead of the forecast mist, bits of ash drifted i’m sick over target market individuals who had been downwind.

Nearest the volumes origination rising, first with extraordinary negligible smoke-stack protrusions on shoulders, upcoming widening out to the linebacker proportions Owens has pioneered, right here in featherlight, mille-feuille buildings.

The display climaxed with billowing shirts, tunics, parkas and gowns in a lustrous habotai silk, extra usually impaired for linings. Many fashions wore radical boots that resembled pneumatic strolling braces.

Grim? Possibly a negligible. However those garments additionally brimmed with grandeur.