The Unexpected Origins of Perfume

How fragrance became a beauty essential. If you ever wondered about the origins of perfume, you might imagine a 16th-century noble who wants to mask their body odors with another, more pleasant scent.

And while that’s not entirely incorrect – perfume was popular among the French royal court for this very reason – perfume is much older than that.

In fact, the oldest record we have of a perfume maker dates back to 1200 BCE Mesopotamia. Ancient Greeks, Romans, Persians, and Arabs all dabbled in the art of perfume-making. Long before Louis XIV decided everything should be perfumed (yes, even the furniture and gloves!).

Let’s explore the fascinating history of perfume with history experts from EssayService, a research proposal writing service that brings together almost 500 academic experts.

Perfume in Ancient World: The Prerogative of Nobles and Priests

Much like any other invention that dates back to the ancient world, it’s impossible to say who should be credited with having the idea to use essential oil or scented water to give something a pleasant smell. All we can know for certain is that the oldest record that mentions a perfume maker is a 1200 BCE cuneiform from Mesopotamia.

But Mesopotamian inhabitants weren’t the only ones to use scented water. At around the same time, the Indus civilization was also experimenting with fragrances. Archeological findings on Cyprus, in turn, revealed an enormous factory that operated during the Bronze Age, around 4,000 years ago.

Nobles in Ancient Greece and Ancient Rome continued with scented liquids, with perfumes using flowers, saps, woods, seeds, or even gums. Across the Mediterranean Sea, Ancient Egyptians used perfume in religious rituals as a means of facilitating the spiritual connection with gods.

After Ancient Greece and Ancient Rome fell into oblivion, Iranians preserved the tradition, which served not just daily life purposes but was also used in religious practices. The earliest reference to perfume usage in Islamic culture dates back to the 6th century.

Supercharged by the crusades, trade from Arabia reintroduced perfumes to European nobles in the 11th and 12th centuries.

France: The European Center of Perfumery

Yes, it’s not just the invention of the first commercially available lipstick or the discovery of mascara that you have to thank the French for. The country became a powerhouse of perfume making during the Renaissance, although the perfume industry began developing in Grasse and its surroundings in the 14th century.

Of course, wearing perfume remained a hallmark of the wealthy and the noble; ordinary folks couldn’t afford the luxury of a fragrance. Perfumed gloves became fashionable in the 17th century, and the idea of adding scent to other items of clothing or furniture was all the rage during Louis XIV’s reign.

In fact, Louis XIV loved perfume so much that he and his descendants’ (Louis XV and Louis XVI) court became known as “the perfumed court.” It even included a Royal Perfumer!

What’s in the Name?

The terminology behind fragrances gets complicated fast once you start looking at historical texts. The word “perfume” itself wasn’t used until the late 19th century, for one!

Before the term’s appearance, “cologne” was used for liquids with citrus, floral, or woody scents from the 18th century onward. “Eau de toilette,” or “toilet water,” appeared soon thereafter, in the 19th century, to signify other scented waters that don’t fall under the early definition of cologne.

The first fragrance to be called perfume (or, rather, “parfum”) was Jicky by Guerlain, made commercially available in 1889. The higher concentration of aromatic compounds is thought to be the main reason why a new term had to be coined.

Chanel No.5 – Image source: Unsplash.com

From a Single Scent to a Complex Fragrance

The beginning of the 20th century was marked not just by the evolution of terms. Traditionally, fragrances were made by distilling essential oils from flowers, with each perfume usually carrying a single-flower scent.

Multiple scientific discoveries brought on a change to this status quo. Enfleurage and steam distillation techniques were perfected to capture complex notes. Meanwhile, the discovery of synthetic compounds like aldehydes allowed perfumers to create never-before-seen fragrances.

Fragrances with complex tones took off in the 1920s, especially with the launch of Chanel No. 5 in 1921. Chanel No. 5 was also designed to appeal to the emerging subculture of flappers – and it was the first to rely heavily on synthetic materials, such as aldehyde C-12 MNA.

Advances in chemistry and synthetic materials also led to a change in categories used to describe fragrances. Around 1900, there were eight categories: citrus, single floral, floral bouquet, amber, woody, leather, chypre, and fougère. In 1945, five new categories replaced the old classification to keep up with the evolution of available scents: bright floral, green, aquatic, fruity, and gourmand.

Today’s fragrances can contain over a hundred ingredients, both natural and synthetic, creating complex scents that are nowhere to be found in nature.

From being a tool for religious rituals to a sign of status, perfumes have had a rich history before becoming an everyday pleasure for people from all walks of life. Designer and celebrity fragrances are now capturing the attention of potential customers, while brands like Jo Malone strive to offer unique fragrances that highlight their wearer’s individuality.

That’s all ! © GlamourDaze

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