A. Roege Hove at Copenhagen Model Occasion SS24

A. Roege Hove, which opened the calendar at Copenhagen Model Occasion for spring/summer season 2024, is billed as a “conceptual knitwear brand.” The word’s highbrow posturing made me surprise: How does a sweater get increased right into a idea? However nearest I encountered the ladies who layer and twist fashion designer Amalie Røge Hove’s items into their wardrobes—and all of it made sense.

Stephanie Broek, a manner scribbler and guide, deliberate to put on an A. Roege Hove get dressed to this life’s programming within the Danish capital. Two years in the past, ahead of she attended the label’s first runway display in 2021, she was once curious concerning the logo’s odd knitted cloth: It will possibly store its situation within the mode of a unmarried, zero-cut garment, however nonetheless stretch to suit a number of frame varieties.

Upcoming the primary display, Broek mentioned those knits have been the controversy of the season, and shortly nearest, she wore the sequence herself. “Amalie has a very distinctive style,” Broek informed me. “You’re able to recognize her work after seeing it once. That’s how unique her knitted pleats are.”

A trio of knitted seems to be from A. Roege Hove’s Spring/Summer time 2023 assortment

Visitors, many dressed within the label, braved the raindrops to view A. Roege Hove’s Spring/Summer time 2024 outside runway.

At A. Roege Hove, knitwear isn’t shed and virtually at all times sheer. With wavelike collars and swooping necklines shaped from knitted pleats, it continuously undulates in sudden instructions. Felicia Pennant, scribbler in important and founding father of on-line zine Season, owns two A. Roege Hove items to this point: an freezing blue one-shoulder manage with a top neck and a dim tank midi get dressed. They build her really feel unedited, she mentioned, since the logo hasn’t but collision “everyone’s wearing it” situation. “They’re definitely trophy pieces,” Pennant informed me, “essentially works of art and quite dramatic.”

On the similar era, as Broek famous, their stretch makes them innately flexible: Bow-tied cardigans, for example, can layer over a T-shirt or be old abandoned as a going-out manage, all the way through other phases of hour. Broek wore a complete A. Roege Hove glance to Model Occasion extreme day date 35 weeks pregnant. “Her designs also make me feel good about my body,” she mentioned. “They emphasize my curves in a beautiful way.”

Guarantee-of-mouth celebrate from customers like those have made A. Roege Hove an insiders’ favourite at the Copenhagen Model Occasion calendar. Ahead of Amalie Røge Hove’s designs have been carried via the likes of Farfetch and MatchesFashion, in addition to forte luxurious boutiques like Untouched York Town’s T.A., she was once posting luggage she’d woven for herself and her sister on Instagram. She gained plenty requests to build extra, and nearest expanded into tops, skirts, and clothes. The baggage she introduced her sequence with in 2019, nearest completing her grasp’s level in textile design and dealing underneath Cecilie Bahnsen, are nonetheless offered via the logo.

Stephanie Broek dressed in A. Roege Hove extreme day

Røge Hove informed me her objective was once at all times to paintings on a logo that all in favour of knits and knits abandoned. “For me, everything just came from this obsession with textiles and layers and no structures meeting each other,” she mentioned. Her self-fulfilling manipulations of yarn and recycled nylon now have the admire of each a rising fan bottom and bigger model establishments: Previous this day, the fashion designer gained the celebrated Karl Lagerfeld Innovation Award on the Woolmark Prize.

A type at the runway throughout extreme season’s display

The award, “[gave] so much energy to the team and, in a way, re-confirmed that what we do is valid in a time where making clothes is maybe not valid in itself,” Røge Hove mentioned.

Now, the logo is thinking about the place to shoot its the momentum it has lately bought. Assortment 10—which debuted the day gone by to a community of editors, consumers, and enthusiasts—stayed true to one of the label’s maximum recognizable facets: an emphasis on impartial tones like dim and white, a number of items which are totally sheer, knits that experience a striped look from their weave.

However indicative of a turning level for the logo, there have been additionally fresh additions: Some items have been woven from Circulose, a subject matter totally shaped from textile misuse; others had silver elaborations alluding to an next collaboration with Danish jeweler Georg Jensen. “New textures and styles show both more of what knit can do, but also what we as a brand can do,” Røge Hove defined. “In that sense, for this show, we’ve been trying to work [with shapes] that have maybe a more tailored look.”

A query defining the total angle pointed again towards purchasers dressed in Røge Hove’s designs out in the true international: “How could we make this a little bit like people on the street in our clothes, in a way?”

Upcoming all, date the fashion designer and her workforce are the primary to weave with a fresh textile or twist a material right into a fresh situation, it’s the society out of doors the atelier who deliver the logo to hour. “They kind of dare to use it in a different way than we show it in the show,” Røge Hove mentioned. “I like this feeling that if you have a piece that you can use for different purposes, through time, you can style it in different ways.”

Two visitors out of doors A. Roege Hove’s untouched display

Fashions in Monday’s display tiptoed in top heels via puddles in a museum backyard refashioned as a cobblestone runway, to a soundtrack of cosmopolitan sirens and honking horns (organized via the fashion designer) and raindrops pouring onto the community (organized via the planet). Some runway seems to be weren’t slightly fitted to a summer season deluge, like a papery semi-transperant tank paired with an similarly see-through midi skirt and flip-flops.

The runway seems to be involving a number of layers—like a three-quarter sleeve dim manage opening just like the shell in The Start of Venus to show a 2d grey tank manage, or an acid-green get dressed crowned with a mesh, long-sleeved abridge—have been more uncomplicated to consider on a hectic town road on the top of summer season. They stated to the qualities A. Roege Hove’s customers mentioned with me: visually fascinating, but flexible.

One of the sheer seems to be from the untouched assortment

A extra layered glance from the untouched display

I exited the display at the back of a couple of pals, considered one of whom was once pregnant and dressed in a tie-front cardigan and skirt via the logo. They posed for a street-style photographer as a shiny raindrops fell, laughing the entire era.

It felt like a snapshot of all of the issues A. Roege Hove’s knitwear may also be: sculptural, bold, a slight revealing—and maximum of all, lived in.

A.Roege Hove Katrine Off-Shoulder Wrap Cardigan

A.Roege Hove Ara Off-Shoulder Aspect-Slit Get dressed

A.Roege Hove Emma Ribbed Knit Cardigan

A. Roege Hove Emma Ribbed Midi Get dressed

A. Roege Hove Emma Ribbed Cardigan

A Roege Hove Emma Ribbed Lengthy-Sleeve Supremacy

Model Trade Writer

Halie LeSavage is the rage trade scribbler at Harper’s BAZAAR. Her genre reporting covers the whole lot from reviewing the most efficient fashion designer merchandise to profiling rising manufacturers and architects. Up to now, she was once the settingup retail scribbler at Morning Brew and a manner assistant at Glamour.